It was with no regret that we departed from Maskelyne island and headed north. Our passage out was easier on the high tide and with the benefit of our GPS track into the bay. However, a vicious tide race around the southern tip of island created ghastly confused seas, a whirlpool, and nasty short sharp waves. Diomedea thrashed her way through all of this, fighting two knots of current and gained the seaway a few miles off the coast of Malakula island for the run north. It was only a 15 mile trip up to Banam bay where we had arranged to meet John and Lyn from Windflower. This bay does not look all that good on the chart but is actually very sheltered and calm. The swell does not roll in. The bay is pretty with an abandoned copra plantation on the shore, a crushed coral beach and numerous coral bommies. We anchored in 10m, which for us seems very shallow now. Across from us is a three masted but square rigged schooner called Alvei. Originally built in 1913 for Scottish herring drift fishing she is of steel and has rather a racey aft raked rig. Sadly this does not translate into speed. The skipper of this 100 footer passage plans at 3-4 knots. He is currently using the boat to provide accomodation for the volunteer staff of Project Marc. Run by two Americans this is aimed at providing medical aid to remote communities in Vanuatu as well as working on eduction, transport and community infrastructure. They are currently refurbishing the fresh water supply of the village here as well as building a "yacht club" on the shore. When the organisers learnt of our professions they became quite interested in us. John and Lyn had suffered an inundation of a locker on their boat, resulting in about 10 litres of salt water finding its way down the breather tube into the diesel tank. Net effect - no motor. We helped them sail onto the anchor and then with the removal of the water. No easy feat. They joined us for dinner and we finally used our Cobb BBQ for the first time this year. We had excellent steaks and sausages. This morning we stretched our legs ashore but frequent showers dampened our enthusiasm. The ruins of the copra plantation were being reclaimed by the jungle. An old tractor was barely keeping its head above the vegetation. Back in the bay, snorkelling was attempted and could have been good if the sun was out. I did find a scorpion fish a few metres off the beach. The day has remained bleak and cold. In fact it seems to be getting colder. We might even have to dig around and find a blanket for the bed tonight. We will run further north, either to Asanvari on Maewo island or to Oyster island next to Espiritu Santo.

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Last night was stunning. Crystal clear. Full moon. No wind. No swell. The sea was like glass. We had excellent Vanuatu steaks with a nice Portugese spice mix. It does not get better than that. By 0500hr, a SW swell had invaded the anchorage at Lamen bay. With no wind Diomedea was at the mercy of it and we rolled like dice at Star City. After breakfast we motored out into the fierce tide races around Lamen island and the passage between it and Malekula. A very uncomfortable seaway indeed with little wind. Our destination lay to the west. The Maskelyne group is said to be gorgeous but it seemed to be smothered in thick haze. Visibility was only a few miles. The Rocket Guide to Vanuatu gave us waypoints for the tight approach to the anchorage of Uliveo. Diomedea went in at half tide and we had only 10cm under the keel through the pass. Think light! Safely anchored in 17m with mud bottom and good shelter from the swell, our home sat nicely in the bay surrounded by three villages. The Lonely Planet guide waxes lyrical about the giant clam reserve here so we decided to investigate further. Even getting ashore was difficult through the inner reefs and mangroves. We made contact with the local school headmaster who then directed a posse of girls to take us to the main village of Peskarus to meet the chief. The walk through the jungle was very pleasant. The village was interesting and generally well kept. The people spoke good english and were very approachable. Whilst in the village we were treated to a display of the national pastime of delousing, using the tried and true manual method. We also observed the manufacture of mats made from pandanus. The chief was a dour but pleasant chap of about 35 who helped arrange our visit to the clam gardens. We waited till the tide had risen sufficiently for our dinghy to make the trip but by this time grey clouds had overtaken the area and the light was failing. Nevertheless the brave crew of Diomedea pressed on. We entered the water only to be confronted by no more than three metre visibility and vaguely defined mud coloured shapes. There may have been a clam there somewhere. Having paid 1000Vatu per head for the experience our group felt suitably chastened and we returned to the yacht for a shower and liquid refreshments. This evening we have had some light rain but are sitting comfortably at anchor. Andrea and I feel that we have not really "got into" Vanuatu like we did with Fiji. Everything here seems such a struggle. We have yet to find any good snorkelling and have not done a single scuba dive. We are not sure what to do tomorrow. Perhaps we might try and hook up with the rally but we do not know their location. Ho hum.

03. Cruising Vanuatu

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The day dawned clear and still at Emae island so we decided to have a close look at Cook reef. The reef is about 2nm across and 4 miles or so from Emae. It breaks continuously so is visible. We drove up to it and then reconnoitred in the dinghy. We were able to do snorkelling in pairs while the other pair stayed on Diomedea. The coral was not particularly impressive but the fish variety good. We saw a brown banded sea snake making his sinuous way across the waves. Clearing the reef in 5-7 knots breeze Diomedea flew her magnificent code zero in the beam reach conditions and for a while made good progress north toward the large mass of Epi Island some 20 miles away. We were treated to an impressive display of manta ray acrobatics, with the fish leaping high into the sky before sommersaulting rather ungracefully back into the water. However, the forecast of light and variable proved correct. The wind faltered and we were forced to set the diesel topsail. Diomedea went along the west coast of the island passing Revolieu Bay with its foreboding black sand beach. The hinterland was rugged and densely clad in jungle. At the time, heavy cloud cast its grey pall over the scenery so we kept rolling up to the fabled home of the dugong. Peter finally managed to catch a tiny fish. This follows the disposal of a large amount of fishing tackle over the side. Lamen bay is a gorgeous anchorage. Very open to the west but sheltered from the east. Approaching it, one sees the cone of the 577m Mt Nitaia volcano on the eastern shore. Mostly not active it seems but there are several active submarine volcanos nearby. Lamen bay has mainly black sand beach which is remarkably hot in the midday sun. The white "sand" is in fact coral fragments and is steep to. The main claim to fame of this strand is the presence of a pod of dugongs. Quite large are the males, up to 2 metres with large whale-like tails. Also in attendance are impressive turtles. We tracked one during a snorkel swim. It was kept clean by two remora fish. Numerous other fish appeared under the yacht as we threw overboard vegetable scraps. Our first night here was very sociable with sundowners on "Halo". The crew are Chris and Heather from Newcastle, UK on a 10 year circumnavigation "project". Currently having troubles with their Volvo Penta engine, they have returned to Port Vila. Also in the bay are "Squid" from Auckland, "Alk" from Lubeck, Germany, and a steely from the UK. We snorkelled the reefs but found them unappealing. A walk in the village was made interesting by an exchange of rice for pawpaws. Sadly the local shop did not appear to stock the icecream mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide. Very dissapointed was the crew of Diomedea! Especially David. Sunday was of course church day. We did not go. Instead Peter and David undertook a major rewiring of the entire yacht. A new 15amp cable was run and the remote control for the inverter/charger was also installed. This enables us to have cappuccinos without crawling into the back of the yacht to turn the inverter on. Excellent.

03. Cruising Vanuatu

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Our initial plan to stay in Havannah harbour was abandoned this morning and we set sail north with a 15-20 knot ESE breeze giving us a beam reach for the 30 miles to Emae island. This is a very spectacular piece of turf with three high peaks in its 10km length and nice beaches. Sadly our views have been quite limited by the clouds and rain associated with the trough that is currently affecting this region. In fact there are numerous dramatic islands in the area, separated by equally dramatic bits of very deep water. The anchorage here is open to the west and not too far from the supposedly impressive Cook reef. Said to be a good dive site. We may try for this tomorrow. The water is a vibrant iridescent blue even in the dull grey light of this wet afternoon. We were visited by a couple of manta rays, swimming lazily around the place. One could see their wing tips, not unlike the canards on the tips of big jet wings. The open mouth of the creature could be seen easily just below the surface. Peter has been trying enthusiastically to obtain a fish but with no success. He had one strike but the swage on the leader failed so the fish made off with all the kit. A common fishing experience. As I sit here, the tide is right on high and with it comes a roll from the north east. The moon is struggling through a gap in the clouds. Two other boats are in the anchorage including Neptune 2 from Southport. They have been in Vanuatu since May with their two small children. Another boat is a German ketch with strange behavioural patterns.

03. Cruising Vanuatu

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Our friends, Peter and Vicki, arrived yesterday from the freezing cold of NSW to the warmth of Port Vila. A celebratory meal at the famous Waterfront Bar and Grill, with the Olympics blaring in the background, was the order of the day. Both Peter and I failed to consume the entire steer that was served as a T-bone steak. This morning saw us attack the wind instrument. A new masthead transducer had been brought out to us but to no avail. The system still does not work. It appears to be the mount on the masthead. This means a complete recabling. Not looking forward to that. The morning remained grey but we cast off and headed off for Havannah harbour which is on the NW coast of Efate. A rough ride around Devils point and then flat water in the lee of the island. We motored through the southern Hilliard channel and found an anchorage in Malapu bay. It is very quiet here tonight, virtually no wind and the water still. We have also been supplied with new music from Al and Barbara and Kylie. Thank you very much. All excellent stuff. In addition we have been given new books which all appear to be quite good reads. I have just finished a gritty little compilation of short stories called "The Boat" by Nam Le. If concludes with the story of Vietnamese refugees on a derelict boat escaping Vietnam. Pretty harrowing. Havannah harbour is enclosed by two islands and was home to the US fleet during WW2. Vanuatu was an important base during this time. Sadly the conclusion of hostilities resulted in the US dumping a very large amount of war materiel into the harbour in Espiritu Santo, rather than giving it to the locals. This has resulted in the name "Million Dollar Point" being applied to the area in question. Of course the wreck of the President Coolidge is in the harbour of that island and is a popular dive site. We may look at that in time. We plan to slowly sail north via the islands of Tongoa, Epi, Ambryn, Malakula, Pentecost, Maewo and then to Santo.

03. Cruising Vanuatu

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I have added many new photos. Please look in Fiji/Musket Cove Rally album and also in the new Vanuatu/Tanna album. Enjoy

03. Cruising Vanuatu

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