After Returning from Mentenegro we sailed into Corfu water at the start of a storm. It was crowded and not very nice. After a few tries to anchor at ??? we went further south to a large beach and managed to find a place to drop the anchor in a secure spot. We stayed here for a few days before returning to Corfu and anchoring to the south of the old fort. It is quite exposed but is very convenient to the town and markets.
On leaving Greece for point further north Argos of Sydney and ourselves were given the run around with misinformation about clearing out at the marine. It cant be done. When we arrived at the new port we struggled to find the right office and as usual the officials we not very interested in yachts. They would not stand our Australian passports as exiting Greece. So we changed our destination and reluctantly they stamped it. On entering I went to the same office but the official would not stamp the form and insisted I purchase a new cruising permit obtainable only in the city. I turned on my heels and decided to check in at a different port.
That night the wind got up and put us on a lee shore. A outcome we had planned for but not expected. We left a bit earlier than we wished and sailed eastwards towards the Greek mainland port of Igoumenitsa. The cruising guide is not correct but we soon established that the new ferry terminal is where the port authorities offices are. They were very friendly and efficient stamping a new cruising guide right on the spot. You can tie up your RIB against the ferry dock and climb the high wharf if you do not wish to walk.
Sailing south we pulled into Platoria and anchored off the beach. Unfortunately the charter fleet were in town so there were no place in the marina which we did not mind. We left the following morning and had a delightful sail to Lakka with Steel Magnolia.
Lakka is a small bay and always full of cruisers and the charter fleet. We wind had come up so the out part of the bay became quite rolly so we moved in towards the quay and managed to find a spot with sufficient swing room. Steel Magnolia also moved but being a large steel vessel people tend to keep away from them!
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We left the Marina at Vieste and anchored under the cliff of the town on the southern side. It was quite shallow and had good holding. That evening it was calm with no swell, such a change from the day of our arrival when the wind was comming through quite strongly. After a great meal and good nights sleep we were pulled up anchor at 0600 and set sail for the nearest Croatian island about 60 nm away. There was not much wind so we had to motor sail most of the way to the island of Lastova. The town of Ubli is situated in a small bay with just enough room for the ferry which was docked in from of the harbour master office. Lastova UbliWe tied up at the customs and immigration dock. The port police officer a lady who spoke very good english wanted to know where I was from and if the global finanacial crisis had hurt Australia. She was very interested in OZ and its wide diversification of people. She observed that May and June the number of vessels checking in at her area of responsibility had dropped by more than 50% as compared to last year.
I walked round the bay to the Harbourmaster office. A drap office but with a network connected computer. He filled in the detail of my cruising permit on line using drop down menu options... the most sophisticated I have yet seen. The speed at which he took the 1765 Kuna or 252 Euro or $450 Oz was swift. He accepted cash but not credit card although there was a ATM right outside his office. I then received the normal cruising permit for One year. I'll use it again next year 2010.
We did not stay but motored south east to a lovely bay called Skrivena. The same name as the Canberra water storage Bike with Harrydam.
We dropped anchor and started to open a bottle of wine for the normal sundowner when the ugly head of money grabbing Croatia appeared. We had been warned that at every anchorage a boat will appear and attempt to take money from the "rich yatties". On our first occasion I deceided that there people were in fact legitimate because they were park officials along with information, uniform and a well fitted out RIB. The fee K20/person/night Not a lot but the start of what is the norm of Croatia. The next day we took the bikes to the shore and set off up the winding road to the main town of Lastova. We had been informed it was only 5 km away. Well after about 4km up the road we reached the top of the hill but the town was no where to be seen. We headed down the road at break neck speed only to reach the botten of the valley with a further hill to climb to reach the town pearched on top of a cliff overlooking the northern side of the island. It is a one road town with a pub, tourest information centre and supermarket. Bike DennyWe stocked on bread and set off down the valley and up the other side before reaching the summit and the long free wheel down to the bay in which Malua was anchored. We were pleased for the exercise but not the heat and the long push to get us to the top of each mountain. Lesson learnt was to check how far a local 5kn easy bike ride actually is!
After lunch we set off in a NW direction for the Island of Korcula. Suppost to be the greenest island in Croatia. The wind was from behind so we had a good sail towards the eastern end od the island, rounded the cape with a distinctive light house. We deceided not to go to Kortula town or the recommended bay to the south east but to drop the anchor in Lumbardo bay, just north of a marina. The following day we sailed NE to ??? bay with its Monestery on to the town of Korcula with its fort and walls. It is said that Marco Polo was born here but the Venitians dispute this. The marina looked crowded and not the place to stay so we moved east to the bay called Banja. The holding was not good at all and after many attempts to get a good hold I deceided to try the fishemans or admaralty anchor. It took first time. Luckely there was no wind so it was not tested when the boat swung. We lowered the RIb with the bikes and went ashore to ride into the walled town of Korcula. Small with narrow streets. The supermarket was good so we stocked up on a few essentials before we set off northwards the following day.
We were heading to the island of Vis to see the Blue Grotto of Croatian fame. One has to arrive in the morning between 9:00 and 11:00 to get the best effect and see it was some distance off we anchored for the night on the southern side at a place called Rukavac. Again not good holding and a few boats around but in the end we got the anchor to hold. Off the next morning in flat calm to the island Bisevo. You dont need to know where the Blue Grotto is because the number of vessels heading in that direction will tell you. There is a bay and you have to drop the hook in at least 25 m of water. Luckely there was no wind and a number of people on there yachts to keep an eye on yours. Into the RIB and rowing to the entrance to the cave. Again the Croatians had their hand out for money. This time 30k per person. You pull your RIB through the low entrance and then you are inside a large cave with this wonderful blue light filtering up from the water. When we entered there were only two other inflatables but we were disturbed by three local tourest boat that barged their way into the best place in the cave. Luckely we had taken our photos and soon left the cave.
We sailed to the main town of Vis called Komiza and anchored out hoping we were far enough out not to be charged to anchor but no a yound lad with a shirt and a local badge came along side and charged us 70k for the night. We went ashore and walked up the hill to the 13th century Benedictine monastery of St. Nicholas, so-called Muster. It has been built on through the ages but the latest Baroque style was added in 1652. Work was underway pumping concrete into the foundations to stop it falling apart. The marina/harbour was filling up as we returned to Malua. We were pleased to be anchored out from the inevitable chaos of the charter boats going astern onto the dock.
As the sun set two small fishing boats started to put out a fishing net. One at each end in an attempt to catch a shoal of fish. After encirceling the fish they hauled the net in by hand, a very difficult task. When the final purse was along side they pulled it abourd with about five buckets of small fish. What an effort for such a small catch. Nothing was thrown back because it was too small. No wonder the Med has been fished out.
We set off to try and get as far north in one hop. We called into see the sunmarine shelters built into the mountains. There are a number of island scattered around this area however few have good anchorages especially if the wind is coming from the south as it was for us. Great sailing but no anchorages. We passed through the chanel between Klement and Maninkovac and did a turn of the Havar bay. Very crowded and not a place to stop. The wind was still in our favour so we set off to find a bay on the southern side of Brac. As we came closser it became obvious that the wind was in the wrong direction so we turned to the east and passed through the ??? channel and into the bay with Milne at its head. We had sailed 60nm that day and just needed a place to anchor which we found in a lovely isolated bay.
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I the headed off to Sinos as I worked my way north. On route the engine compartment blower fan stopped working so I had to find a replacement. I anchored in the town harbour just in front of the many waterside restaurants. The ferry make quite a swell as they turn to go stern to against the quay. My gangplank got caught under the dock and the ends crushed as Malua surged back on its anchor. Not a great sight but better than fibreglass against concrete. Having the bicycles on board is a great help in covering a lot of ground in search of a spare part. Serifos harbourI found a chandler and did not expect them to have a fan but could you believe it the very same fan at a much better price and in Oz. Such a pleasure to fit it. So now I have the hum of the blower as we motor along keeping the engine room cool or more importantly the alternator cool to give out the required amps. That evening for the second time the two yachts with the Swedish family celebrating the fathers birthday came stern too along side again. They were having great fun from the old couple right to a young baby in arms. The British vessel I had met at Serifos can in and invited me to drinks and dinner. Great night but their outlook for the British economy is not good with their prediction of asset values only 40 % of their highs of a few years ago and the pound to go through the floor.
I packed up, untied the lines and was heading out of the harbour when from across the water came this holla of Harry, Harry. Who was calling me? As I turned to this distant figure on the dock he took his cap off and I instantly recognised my great Italian friend Francesco and Paula who I had last seen in the Halkadiki. Delos lionsThey had just come onto the island and had moored in the marina away from the swell and were walking to the town to get some provisions. We arranged to meet in Mykinos in a few days time. I continues to Delos to see the ruins and the famous lions ( stone that is and not the originals. I anchored under the sign that said no anchoring and took the RIB ashore to walk around the ruins just as the last of the mornings tour group as leaving and an hour before the afternoon group arrived. 16 guided groups from an American cruise liner. Thank goodness I am not rich and have to follow the group.
I set off for Mykinos to look at the old harbour. I had to weave my way around the three cruise liners and two large sailing ships anchored in the bay. I put my nose in the new harbour which like many Greek marinas is not finished to again hear a bellow of Harry from the dock side. Francisco had arrived and was moored along side. raftingI came in against the dock and they rafted up on the outside. They had two New Zealand guest on board their small boat so my vessel was used a shower room, beauty parlour and dining room. Francesco prepared a great pasta which we enjoyed after passing the pots from one vessel to the next.Italian pasta The following day they set off for Delos while I sailed to the bay Ornos south of the Mykinos town. Again the bicycles came in handy but I took the high road up over the mountain rather than the coastal route to get to Mykinos. Was it hot and a long slog only followed by a short sharp down hill flight to cool off.. This evening we had skate pasta on Francisco's boat with no passing the pots from vessel to vessel. I also saved tome water.
The next day was a day sail to Paradise Beach to see the beautiful people who had obviously not arrived for the summer. Well rather that than the previous visit which was an eye opener. Now off to Tinos and the route north but I fear the wind is coming out of the north and I will have to battle a head wind or wait a few days.
I arrived at Tinos and was greeted by a very friendly harbour master who placed me at the end of the wharf with my stern to and into the prevailing wind. The forecast for strong wind was still in force and during the night the wind came through. It started at 25 knots then rose during the day. I put extra lines to the dock but was not happy with the holding of my main anchor. The dust was blowing off the dock right over Malua and out into the harbour. That evening I put the ?? anchor, the 20mm polypropaline warp into the RIB and led it out from the bow 70m out into the harbour. Back on deck I pulled it taught with the windlass and was able to move the stern off the dock, not that was needed because the wind was driving Malua away from the dock but it was good to know that if the wind changed direction the second anchor would hold us off the dock.
That evening the wind rose to to more than 40 knots. Some gusts touched 50. It was a howling storm. Tinos linesThe other boats were all up most of the night tending to their lines and fenders. Luckily I had no problems either with the lines or being blown up against the dock. The wind dropped the next day and people rearranged their location. Only the very large ferries were travelling between islands. I stayed put for five days while the wind blew a storm. On the sixth day I decided that it was time to leave despite the wind still in the 15 to 20 knot range. It took almost an hour to retrieve the second anchor, undo the extra lines and pull up the anchor. At last I was off westward towards Athens. Out side the harbour the wind was still up but the sea had calmed so I turned Malua bow down wind and headed for Kythnos passing north of Sifnos. My chosen harbour was Loutra but as I approached it was obvious that it was on a lee shore and there would be no shelter in the prevailing conditions. Plan B. Sail further south to a deep inlet on the island of Kythnos. I dropped the anchor in a lovely bay Ioannis 37 23.909N 24 28.162 E. I started to clean the boat of all the dust that had come off the dock. The boat and my cloths were full of sand so I did I big wash using the faithfull footmatic tub wash in the cockpit.
The next day I set off in a flat calm northwards with a few day to spare before Denny arrived. I was heading to the island of Kea to a good protected bay. I was able to sail up the coast but had to motor the last few miles into an increasing strength wind. I dropped the anchor opposite the town wharf of Vourkari. 37 40.026N 24 19.528E The holding is not good but after a few goes I got the pick in and it held with a good pull astern. The following day was Sunday and the yachts and power of Athens started to arrive and try to find a plave at the wharf. It is always funny to watch how the inexperienced skipper go astern especially if there is a cross wind. In the end most of the vessel found a spot. The following day I was off to Athens, in fact Lavrion the port on the eastern mainland shore near the international airport.
I arrived to find not a single spot to tie up to. Just then a yacht left and I quickly slipped into the spot.
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