07/31/2007, Toau, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
We had a great time with Gaston and Valentine at Anse Amyot and their family on the atoll of Toau in the Tuamotos for the past several days. Theirs is the only family on the atoll and they were lovely guests. We enjoyed a scrumptious dinner of lobster, octopus, fish, rice, coconut bread and coconut rice one evening at their restaurant, while last night we had a potluck at their restaurant with the cruisers bringing various dishes while Gaston and Valentine provided fish and octopus. (More about the octopus in a minute.)
The winds, which had been gusting up to 30 knots and maintaining a steady 20-22 knots, finally let up a bit and we decided to take Gaston up on his offer to take us to swim with the manta rays in the lagoon of the atoll. First, everyone on board was, I believe, glad that it was Gaston and not ourselves navigating the run-about boat through the minefield of coral heads. Anse Amyot, situated on the northwest side of Toau, is technically a cul de sac since it does not (technically) have a pass into the atoll. But, Gaston took his run-about through some very shallow water next to his parc d' poissons (fish traps) and then through a scattering of VERY closely lodged coral heads that rise straight up to the surface of the water. Local knowledge a must! While the waves were still a bit rough for snorkeling, we knew that yesterday would be our only chance to snorkel with the mantas. As we geared up and prepared to jump off into the lagoon waters, I hoped to see a couple of manta rays in the four foot wing span range. Boy, was I surprised when I jumped in and saw four or five very large mantas gliding in the waters right beneath me. Their wing spans probably ranged from 8 to 12 feet. Very impressive! Mantas are filter feeders and are not aggressive animals. It was amazing to see them swim up from about 20 feet to only 5 feet below us and then see them arch over backwards (so their undersides showed), and then circle back down in a loop pattern into a school of small fish. Their movements were so fluid and graceful it was as if we were watching an underwater ballet. I was so glad to to have my camera with me to capture a few special shots.
When we arrived back into the anchorage, Sam went octopus hunting with Gaston. Gaston knew where the octopi like to hide out, and he quickly found a hole and stuck his wooden spear down into it. A couple of jabs had the octopus entangling the spear (and Gaston's arms) with his tentacles. Quickly, Gaston grabbed its head and turned it inside out and twisted its neck. A few slams on the rocks and a bit of cleaning out of the intestines and Mr. Octopus was ready for dinner. Valentine makes an out-of-this-world curried coconut cream sauce and then simmers the octopus in it. Really, really delicious! And very tender, too. Gaston did mention that when hunting octopus you have to be very careful not to allow its tentacles to enter your ears or your nose as the suction cups are a real danger and ear drums can be popped and nasal passages . . . (well, not real sure what happens there, but I believe we'd all agree that octopus tentacles up the nose is something to be avoided at all costs).
We are now en route to Papeete, Tahiti and should arrive Thursday morning. When we left out of Toau this morning (Tues.) we were flying along at 8.5 knots for the entire morning. Our hopes were high for an arrival tomorrow morning into Papeete! But, after lunch the wind died down to 8 knots and our SOG (speed over ground) was reduced to 4.5 knots for a bit, but now we are back up to 6 knots.
I will post some additional photos of the mantas over the next couple of days since our slow connection over the SSB radio severely limits my ability to send attachments. We are lucky, though, that Winlink (unlike SailMail) does offer us the ability to send attachments. Using Photoshop, I try to reduce the photo size to somewhere in the 10-20 kb size, and then I generally do not have any problems. But, trying to send more than one photo at a time can be problematic. So, check back in a day or so for more photos! When we get to Tahiti (where a fast internet connection will be possible), I will upload new photos into the Photo Gallery.
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07/27/2007, Anse Amyot, Toau, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Sweaters and jackets in Polynesia? Well, according to Tori and Alison it was a bit chilly (with the wind and all, you know). The thermometer was reading a bone-chilling 81 degrees, but with 18 knot winds ... well, let's just say that they are very lucky they didn't get frostbitten. Well, technically it is the winter months here since we are south of the equator and the seasons are flip-flopped.
(The sad fact is that later that night I could have sworn it was in the 60's because it did feel cool, but it was actually 79 degrees. We are now officially the wimps of cold weather. Will we ever be able to go skiiing again?)
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07/27/2007, Anse Amyot, Toau, Tuamotus, FP
The wind has been blowing hard all of today and tonight, but we are in a wonderfully secure little anchorage on the northwest side of Toau. There are a couple of families here and they are the sole inhabitants of all of Toau. We met Valentine yesterday and she proudly showed us her restaurant (where we will be eating tomorrow night), her copra, her small church (where she leads the services) and her pigs and little piglets. If the wind hadn't been blowing a steady 22 knots all day we were to go with Valentine to a small motu further out in the lagoon, along with a side trek to see a large resident manta ray that we could all swim with.
But, the wind is blowing ... still ... and shows no signs of letting up. I just checked the wind speed indicator and it's reading out a steady 26 knots. Not exactly good sleeping weather. We are on a mooring installed by the family (apparently the French government required them to install moorings before they'd let them open the restaurant so that the reef would not be destroyed in this small cul de sac), but I'd feel safer if we were on our own anchor. This will probably turn into one of those nights when I am up and down all night looking at the chartplotter, checking the wind, and making sure the anchor alarm is set while our dear Captain Sam snores soundly away.
On a different note: When I look at this photo I am amazed at how much the girls have grown since we moved onto Purrrfection in August 2004. Tori, who is now the (usually) ardent sailor, held a slightly different view three years ago when she was 11. She barraged our ears with her daily lamentation of "You have ruined my life." Then, slowly, over time, she changed her view. Alison, who was only 9, was too young at that time to really voice many protests. Thank goodness for that! I think I would have gone insane if I would have heard a double chorus of the Tori mantra every day!
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07/26/2007, Rotovoa, Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Here's the additional photo to go along with the "Pushin' Up the Daisies" entry.
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07/26/2007, Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Just a visual reminder to everyone that at some point we will all end up "pushin' up some daisies," so we had all better be making the most of each day.
This cemetery on the Fakarava atoll was touted as being an "old" cemetery, but Sam and I were a bit confused as we saw no old gravestones. Most were from within the past 5 years or so. So where did all the old gravesites go? We found one older mausoleum-type structure, but it was open and there was nothing in it. Kind of creepy. Perhaps it is best not to have all of one's questions answered.
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07/24/2007, Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
We've been "houseless," but certainly not "homeless" for several years now. Boy, that could soon change, though. Sam came across this oceanfront property that has real fixer-upper appeal and potential. This "maison" features a split level plan, including a loft, deck and even a pantry. Real open-air appeal.
Ummm maybe we might pass on the opportunity. Any takers for a slice of paradise?
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07/22/2007, Fakarava, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
We have had some terrific snorkeling here in the Tuamotus. The water is often a beautiful deep turquoise blue, other times it is a rich cerulean blue, but always it is clear and inviting. (I never knew for sure what color "cerulean blue was, but we just recently watched "The Devil Wears Prada" with Meryl Streep and now I have been thoroughly educated on the importance of cerulean blue.) The visibility has been nothing less than spectacular. The tropical reef fish are different here than in the Caribbean, though, and we are enjoying trying to identify the various new species. Some species are the same, though. Unfortunately, since we don't have a fish book for the Pacific, our identification has been limited to comments such as, "Did you see that one with the Pinocchio-type nose that looks like a swordfish-wannabe?" Not exactly scientific. And, of course, we've had several escorts on each snorkel trip: black-tip sharks.
The way I figure it, beagles and black-tip sharks have a lot in common. Beagles are basically good-natured dogs that just like to be free of a leash and wander around the neighborhood in search of some food scraps. Hey, that sounds exactly like a black-tip shark. Black tips are basically good-natured chaps who just like to carouse around a bit. Their neighborhood may be the coral reef rather than suburbia, but a 'hood is a 'hood. Beagles are inquisitive and will usually come around to see what is happening if they notice some action somewhere. Ditto for the black-tip shark. Beagles like to chase rabbits and other wildlife just for the fun of it. Black-tip sharks seem to enjoy cruising the reefs trying to cause havoc in much the same way, but generally causing no harm (and most of the time being completely ignored, to their likely chagrin).
But, have you ever tried to take away the dog food bowl when a beagle is eating? I dare any one of you to try that risky maneuver. (Kids, don't try this at home.) Anyone who has been so brave knows all too well that the mild-mannered slightly pudgy beagle will morph into a killer Rottweiler/Doberman/Pit Bull mix that promptly chomps down and takes off a finger or two from the offending hand. And so goes it with black-tip sharks. As long as you don't try to take their food away (such as taking the spear with that nice fish on the end of it out of their reach), then they aren't likely to cause you any harm. But, you take their food bowl away, and, well, there may be consequences to pay.
(Dedicated to Max, our friends Dan, Susan and Matt's beagle. Hi, guys!)
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07/22/2007, Makemo, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Here's an additional photo to go along with the entry about black tip sharks. Just like a pack of beagles out for the hunt.
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07/15/2007, Makemo, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Makemo: What a gorgeous place! The Marquesas with their dramatic steep volcanic mountains covered with their dense lush foliage were certainly beautiful, too. But, I so enjoy waking up and enjoying my morning cup of coffee in the cockpit while I gaze upon crystal clear blue water and palm trees waving on shore in the light breeze. The water is so clear within this atoll that you can see clear to the bottom in 35 feet of water. Very nice. We were in Raroria yesterday (another atoll in the Tuamotus), but the wind was kicking up from the SE and we had a lot of coral heads in the anchorage right behind us, so we decided to move on.
Yesterday was Bastille Day here. Raroria had several activities planned: pitonque (aka bocce) tournaments, longboat races and volleyball, along with a BBQ of some sort. So, we thought that Makemo, being even a larger village (relatively speaking) would also have some events planned, but they are in the process of building a new gymnasium and the supply boat was arriving with tons of aggregate to be unloaded, so they decided it was more worthwhile to have the young men working rather than celebrating. Also, although these are French islands, it seems as though the locals think of Bastille Day as a holiday for the French, not necessarily for them. Polynesians have their own festival, Heiva, which runs from the end of June to mid-July, and they seem to place more emphasis on that celebration.
We had a domestic morning: laundry, defrosting the freezer and cooking. (Sorry folks, it's not cocktails with umbrellas all the time when you're cruising.) This afternoon we invited the girls from Encanto to go swimming with us and now Tori and Alison are over at their boat making "milkshakes." (We supplied the ice and sweetened condensed milk and the other boat is supplying their industrial strength VitaMix blender. I think the motor on it is larger than our small dinghy motor. No joke.) So, they are not technically milkshakes like one would get at Dairy Queen, but they are still pretty darned good.
Sam and John from Encanto are over on shore cleaning the coconuts they gathered on their dinghy exploration earlier this afternoon. It takes some time and there's certainly a technique to it all. It's actually pretty difficult work to get the meat out of the shell. If they get them done soon enough, while the girls are still making milkshakes, then there could be some coconut milkshakes to be shared. Speaking from past experience, those are really hard to beat.
And that is life in paradise for today. Ta-ta.
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07/14/2007, Raroria, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Around 1950 or so, Thor Heyerdahl and the his raft, the Kon Tiki, unceremoniously arrived at Raroria and promptly crashed into the southeastern corner of this atoll, thereby ending the famous voyage.
You will be happy to know that we were able to arrive and depart Raroria without any of the problems that Thor experienced. The pass into the atoll was a bit of ride, though, with the current running at about 5 knots against us on the way in. When the tide is running hard, the water boils up like a witches' cauldron. So, we waited for what we thought was slack tide or close to it, but since the tide tables are not exactly dead-on in most of the Tuamotus, you have to rely on your observations rather than a strict timetable perusal. We still had the outgoing tide coming out against us (as we wanted) and we had no problems. But, for those cruisers who aren't used to inlets where the water really rushes in and out (say, like the Boynton Beach or Jupiter inlets in Florida) and aren't used to eyeball-navigation around coral heads based on the observations of crew serving as spotters on the bow (as everyone has to while cruising the Bahamas), I suppose it could be a bit of a different type of area to navigate through.
P.S.: As an update, we have been to several atolls since I wrote this entry (Raroria, Makemo, Tahanea, and Raroria) and none of them have been as terrible as the guide books would have you believe. Raroria was the "worst" of them, and it certainly wasn't a monster by any means. A little common sense goes a long way: know the tide tables; observe the pass for awhile by lingering outside before attempting to go through; don't try to sail through; do it in good light; watch your SOG (speed over ground) and push the engine harder when necessary. Going in against an outgoing tide is a better idea than surfing your way in to an unknown atoll with offending reefs and coral heads in abundance. Just common sense.
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07/06/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Horses are very popular in the Marquesas. This image brings back fond memories of how I spent a good part of my time while growing up on a farm in Ohio. If you ever wanted to bring a good item to trade in the Marquesas, pick up some inexpensive saddles in Mexico or Panama and they'd be worth a fortune here. The local saddles leave a lot to be desired as they are basically carved out of wood. After having the opportunity to race horses down a street with one of the local guys from Pua Mau, Hiva Oa, I can personally attest to their lack of comfort!
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07/02/2007, Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva
Ever since we arrived in the Marquesas over a month ago and have heard the baaaiing (or whatever sound it is that goats make -- sounds like a child crying actually) of the wild goats in the hills, Sam has wanted some goat meat. I have had goat before at Indian restaurants and in the Bahamas and, quite frankly, I wasn't too thrilled with it.
The locals use their dogs to hunt and kill the wild goats and wild pigs which wander the lush green mountains in French Polynesia. This morning we woke to the obvious sounds of a goat being hunted down by two dogs. The dogs finally killed the goat down by the waterside and then stayed by the goat waiting for their owner to arrive (as is the routine established long, long ago). (This may seem harsh to some, but this is how they put meat on their tables for them families.) However, the dog's owner was not at home, having gone to Taiohae Baie for the Heiva Nui festivities. We thought it a terrible shame to just let the meat go to waste, so Sam went to the village just to the west of Daniel's Bay and explained the situation.
As quick as can be, one of the young men said "Let's go" (or the equivalent thereof) and hopped into our dinghy. The young man, who is named Aho (phonetic), quickly field dressed and skinned the goat, and then, as a present, provided us with about half of the goat. In return, we gave him four beers (in French Polynesia, a can of beer at the store costs nearly $4.00) and a pound of coffee (worth $12.00 here). He was quite happy with the exchange, but wouldn't let it end. After Sam returned him to his village, he presented us with a large stalk of bananas. And that is typical of how business with the villagers is conducted.
Aho provided Sam with directions regarding how to cook it the "traditional way" (using soy sauce and oyster sauce, of all things) and I have to admit that it was actually quite good. Unlike the other times when I've had goat and the meat had a strong goat flavor, this was actually quite mild and not very gamey at all.
Maybe now Sam can FINALLY stop talking about getting a goat.
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07/01/2007, Daniel's Bay, Nuku Hiva
I guess most couples would be thrilled to celebrate an anniversary in French Polynesia. I guess that's why Sam brought us here, right? Some friends of ours were going to hike to the waterfall, so since we enjoyed it so much the first time around, we decided to do it again. (See prior photo and story from June 14th). The waterfall is actually right behind us, but you can't see it in this photo.
This time it didn't rain the entire way and Sam even went swimming in the pool at the base. He didn't see any eels, but as we were leaving and traversing a creek, I did see one about 2 feet long hiding under a rock. I made the mistake of pointing it out to one of our friends and he promptly touched the eel's tail which made it shoot straight out into the stream towards me. Thanks, guy. But, alas, the current caught it and carried it away at the last moment. According to the locals, the eels do bite. They do eat them, so I guess they should know.
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06/29/2007, Taiohae Baie, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
Today marked the start of the Heiva Nui Festival which takes place on most of the islands throughout French Polynesia and lasts for several weeks. Today was also Autonomy Day, which recognizes the support that the French have given the islands, but which also recognizes the autonomy of the islands. Frankly, I'm not sure if it is coincidence that the two holidays collide or if it was planned that way so that the French could have a role in their local festivities.
The various sports teams paraded through town, with each stopping in front of the tent that held the village officials (mayor, gendarme (police chief), etc.) Each group sang a song in Marquisian, which was obviously a tribute of some kind to the officials. Several of the groups had young men performing traditional dances and chants. Then there was the obligatory fire truck and ambulance rambling through with their sirens on full tilt. (Some things never change, no matter where you are.)
Flowers are still very much a part of the islands' traditions. The majority of the women and teenage girls wear a flower behind their ears every day. Behind the right ear, proclaims that you are married. Behind the left ear, that you are single. And, if you are wearing your flower backwards behind your left ear it means that you are ready "right now."
They often even wear these lovely flower wreaths which often contain laurel leaves (what Americans would call Bay leaves) and they smell just wonderful. These two older ladies were just thrilled to pose for my camera. They had been to watch the parade that morning.
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06/29/2007, Taoihae Baie, Nuku Hiva
I believe this would be the equivalent of the Queen/Princess float, but I'm not sure about that. This was the only float with only one person on it. This was probably a tremendous amount of work to create with all the plaiting of the palm leaves.
From the other decorations present for the festival, it is apparent that the Polynesians appreciate the beauty of their surroundings and love to use palm fronds, flowers and shells in the most artistic ways to decorate.
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