Well, we finally left Fajardo on February 3rd, heading for Puerto Patillas on the southeast corner of PR. After a very rolly night there, we travelled to a lovely secluded anchorage at Cayos de Barca in the Boca de Infierno near Salinas. The area features neat channels for dinghy exploring and clear water, despite the miles of mangrove swamp. Then it was off to Isla Caja de Muertos (Coffin Island?) near Ponce. The island is a National Park, overrun on the weekends but empty during the week while we were there. This was a great chance for hiking! The next day we dropped the hook at Guilligans (Gilligans) Island. Again, this is very busy on the weekends with folks swimming, lounging and just hanging around in the crystal clear knee to neck deep water amongst the mangroves. We had not visited these places on the trip east, but would recommend each to anyone making that passage - although you would need to wiggle your way in close at Puerto Patillas to get completely out of the roll.
Finally, the next day we rounded the southwest corner of PR and anchored in Boqueron. So much for downwind sailing - the log shows 20 hours of engine time for 23 hours on passage!
On the way in to the harbour we heard another vessel hailing Werplayin, whom we first met in Beaufort and accompanied through the Bahamas to Warderick Wells. Later when we dinghied ashore, we saw Seven Bridges, the DR boat with whom we had crossed the Mona Passage in April 2008. Amazing how small the cruising community really is - and the opportunities to get together and swap stories. Steve, on Seven Bridges now keeps his boat in Samana, and advised he would probably be in Santo Domingo when we were there. Moreover, he plans to sail to Santiago de Cuba in early March.
In company with Bonanza, we rented a car for provisioning and exploring the western part of Puerto Rico. We travelled up to the surfing hangout at Rincon, and visited Aguada and Aguadilla on the north coast. One highlight was a visit to Ponce.
Once folks in Boqueron heard that we'd be stopping at Ile a Vache, several people put together a pile of food and clothing for us to deliver to the Island.
Sailing is always a humbling experience, especially for those of us who like to plan their trip. We left Boqueron on February 14th with a plan to cover the 670 nautical miles to Santiago, Cuba in three weeks with about nine stops along the way. We had delayed our Boqueron departure by 4 days because of big north swells (12 feet) that would make our Mona Passage crossing uncomfortable and block our entry into Mona Island, our first stop. Well, after travelling 45 miles, we still couldn't enter Mona Island because the somewhat reduced north swell was still breaking across the entrance reef and into the anchorage. We had to continue another 55 miles through the night arriving at Isla Saona at 2AM on a pitch dark night.
After a night at Las Palmillas in the secluded anchorage we were surprised the next day when twenty or so large boats full of tourists from Bayahibe and La Romana cruise terminal swamped the place. They all hung out in the shallow water partying and snorkeling till later in the day - then seclusion returned! It was then time to move on to Casa de Campo marina to check in to the DR. The normal batch of seven officials cost us about $123 US. The marina was $1.10 per foot plus 16% ITBIS (tax). We rented a golf cart and explored the whole resort - which is more like a large village with stores, hotels, restaurants, mega-homes, mega-yachts, several golf courses, polo, rodeo grounds, helipad, etc.
The piece de resistance once one stops drooling at the mansions is Alto de Chavon, an ancient European village reconstruction on the heights above the Chavon River, complete with a Greek amphitheater. This was the site of the entertainment ambush, and the crime (Bonanza and Voyageur C musical talent) can be seen in our headline picture! After a couple of days oohing and ahhing we left millionaire land and moved on to Marina ZarPar in Boca Chica on February 19th.
Marina ZarPar is a great little spot run as efficiently as any in North America. Our bible for cruising the DR was free, authored by Frank Virgintino whom we met at ZarPar. Later, with Bonanza, we left the boats in the marina and travelled by local bus into the capital, Santo Domingo, to spend a night.
Visiting Santo Domingo (Zona Colonial) is like walking into a history book. Imagine walking the same streets as Pizarro, Cortez, Bartolome Colon (Columbus) and of course Christopher Columbus. Sir Francis Drake looted and slept here as well. The buildings are incredible, many dating from the early 1500s. This is the site of the oldest hospital and oldest (still in use) cathedral in the western hemisphere and was the base of operations for the Spanish conquest of the New World.
We spent a week in Boca Chica waiting out a succession of cold fronts that are bringing west winds. A cold front is one thing, but four in 10 days is a bit much. West wind wouldn't be so bad if our intermediate anchorages weren't wide open to the west!
Ah well, the Presidente (beer) was nice and cold. Temperature here gets down to the chilly 70s but gets back to high 80s in the day. Leona even brought the comforter out of retirement.
In any event on Feb 27th we motored all day to Salinas, our jumping off spot for Ile a Vache by way of Bahia de las Aguialas, a total run of 215 miles or so. We plan to leave this evening, assuming we get our internacionale despacho. Unfortunately, it looks like a long motor trip with winds under 10K most of the way. Since leaving Boqueron we've motored for 36 of 42 hours due to incessant cold fronts killing the trade winds. Where oh where is the downwind sailing?
UPDATE:
Well, we went for our Despacho and were advised we can't get international clearance from Salinas, so we have to go to Barahona tomorrow, where we might be able to clear out! Another day or two behind the plan.
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After our New Year's celebration we moved out of St. Martin's Simpson Bay lagoon into the Marigot anchorage to stage for a 0330 departure for the BVI. We arrived in Leverick Bay, Virgin Gorda 13 hours later, but had to motor the entire trip. What happened to leisurely downwind sailing?
From Gorda Sound we went to East End, Tortola to say farewell to Griff on Mystic Journey and also have lunch with Wayne and Dianne, friends from our Winnipeg days in the early eighties. Their cruise ship just happened to be visiting Road Town, Tortola on January 7th while we were there. Small world, isn't it?
The next day, we cleared in to the USVI and picked up a mooring at one of our favorite places, Waterlemon Cay, St. John. After a couple of days snorkeling and hiking we moved on to Charlotte Amalie to rendezvous with Daniell Storey. It turned out that Hoof Beats, Allegro and Dream Maker were also there, so the expanded group celebrated Happy Hour at the Green Room.
After that it was off to Culebra to clear in to Puerto Rico. We spent a rainy, blustery week anchored off Dewey. We met Brian & his wife from Winnipeg (Northern Lights IV) another IP with whom Bill had corresponded on the IP mailing list. Reinforcing the small world perspective, they had visitors on board, Nancy & John from Kelowna (Sukha 1) who had hosted us on their IP (now in BC) last time we were in Dewey, a year ago!
We all went to Mamacitas to celebrate Michelle's birthday and we took the opportunity to say farewell to everyone including CheetahII, Minx and especially Daniell Storey (Dave & Michelle) one of three boats we have travelled with for much of our Caribbean trip. Our other buddy boats are Bonanza (Roy & Michelle) who are heading further west with us, and Dream Maker (Bill & Cathy) to whom we said farewell over dinner at one of the kiosks in Luquillo, near Fajardo.
We arrived in Fajardo on January 19th and spent a feverish two weeks going over Voyageur C and stocking up. In addition to the normal cleaning, oil and filter changes along with the usual minor repairs we had some biggies to complete. We even had to pull an impeller blade out of the heat exchanger. Sheesh! The fun jobs included replacing the head pump, head hoses and replacing the leaking stainless steel water lift muffler that has been the most unreliable piece of equipment on the boat since we re-powered.
Retracing our steps, it is 1200 nautical miles back to Miami and 2100 more back to Halifax. Considering we want to go via Cuba, it will be more like 4000 miles to get home.
Compared to the languid pace of the past year, we'll have to move faster, further and more frequently. The route from here to Miami along the south coasts of PR, DR and Cuba is certainly less supportive in terms of services and supplies so our inventory and equipment have to be in top shape. However, it is downwind, so there should be less wear and tear but Voyageur C needs 15 to 20 knots to keep her engine quiet.
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We missed some history in the last blog - entering the Saints Leona finally caught dinner - a lovely 3 pound tuna. She filleted it and we enjoyed tuna that very evening. We haven't mastered the full Fling, Flog and Fillet technique so we use cheap alcohol (her vodka not my rum) to terminate the catch. For those who aren't familiar with the 3F technique, it is the one in which you jerk the catch out of the water, it hits the mast, knocks itself out and falls off the hook onto the deck - As perfected by Atmosphere from Saint John, NB.
Bill submitted a story to the Caribbean Compass about our Angel Falls trip. The story was accepted and published in the December issue. The newspaper is distributed throughout the sailing community in the Caribbean, and is also available online at www.caribbeancompass.com. We sent the proceeds to the Carriacou Childrens Education Fund. The story may also appear in the Trinidad & Tobago Boaters Guide.
But I digress:
December 1st saw us up at 0 dark 30 (Daniell Storey's code phrase for a pre dawn departure) to catch the 5 AM opening of the bridges across Riviere Salee. There were four boats and we were second. Unfortunately, once thorugh the first bridge it was pitch black, and the lead boat which showed no lights, sped up and slowed down frequently, making for an interesting trip on the river. Once through the reef, we found light wind, frequent squalls and then wind with frequent changes in direction. Eventually things settled down and we sailed the rest of the 55 mile passage to Falmouth Harbour, Antigua in company with Bonanza. We arrived mid afternoon with ample time to check in at English Harbour and later enjoy a great dinner at Trappas. Two days later we moved around to Jolly Harbour so we could jump over to Montserrat when wind and sea conditions were appropriate to stay overnight in the exposed Little Bay anchorage. Just to add excitement, the volcano has been quite active lately and the threat level raised to a 4 out of 5.
After hanging about Jolly for a while, we realized that we were not going to get to Montserrat on our own bottoms so we headed for St. Kitts on December 8th enjoying a lovely downwind sail in 15 to 20 knots with 8 foot seas. Impressed how fast Voyageur C sails downwind with just a full main - well secured against accidental jibes in the quartering swell.
We spent a very enjoyable 9 days in St. Kitts, 3 nights anchored out in Ballast Bay on the southwest corner of the island and 6 nights at the Port Zante marina which is right at the cruise ship terminal in downtown Basse Terre. Unfortunately, the anchorage in town is very uncomfortable so those are the only practical choices.
Winston, whom Bill worked with back in Nortel lives on the island with his wife Rosie and they entertained us royally and made certain we didn't miss anything on the island. Winston owns a car rental firm (Bullseye) who will deliver your car to the marina or the anchorage. We started with a convertible and then switched to a jeep for some real back country exploring in the rain forest and the undeveloped southern part of the Island. On our last visit we saw Caribelle Batik, the Brimstone Hill fortress and one plantation so we revisited these as well as enjoying lunch and the beautiful grounds at Ottley Plantation.
St. Kitts is blessed with some excellent restaurants - our favorites included Stone Walls (downtown), Golden Lemon (NE corner of St. Kitts) and Ballahoo (on the circle).
While we were there, the Beaumont Park race track held its grand re-opening so we joined 10% of the St. Kitts population at the event. (Bill picked the winner in race 4, with some assistance from the two out of six horses that didn't start. One fell in the pre race showing and the other refused to enter the starting gate after ten minutes of prodding!
On December 17th we left St. Kitts for the 63 mile trip (lovely sail all the way from the tip of St. Kitts) to Simpson Bay Lagoon in St. Martin, timing our trip to the 1730 opening of the bridge on the Dutch side. St. Martin was our objective for the month because of its excellent stores and the major international airport - one of the few to which you can take a dinghy!
Our timing was excellent, as Samantha Leona Roberts was born to Angela and Doug the very next day.
Last time in St. Martin, we sat tight due to strong Xmas winds out of the north east. For this visit, we've had generally light winds, sometimes from the south or even southwest. One unwelcome fringe benefit was volcanic ash from Montserrat coating the boat and irritating our eyes. Thankfully this didn't fall for long.
Shortly after arriving, we wandered over to Moonlight Maid to meet Alan and Heather, recently arrived from Halifax by way of Newport and Bermuda. In company with Rum Runner, whom we re-discovered when we entered the lagoon, we returned to La Main a la Pate in Marigot for a feed of fresh PEI mussels but, alas, they sold out before we got there.
On the 22nd Leona caught Westjet back to Halifax to help out with Sam, leaving us apart for Xmas for the first time in 45 years! Roy and Michelle from Bonanza made sure the captain didn't starve, and Nancy Dawson, Mi Amante and Chinook Arch provided Bill with an excellent dinner on Xmas Day. Xmas Day was extremely rainy, giving us a chance to wash off the ash and then top up the water tanks without hauling jerry jugs or moving the boat.
Leona was back on the 29th, and gthe next night we headed out with Bonanza to the Bali Bar in Marigot for yet another excellent dinner. We spent a rainy and windy New Year's Eve aboard Nancy Dawson with Mi Amante, Chinook Arch, Kewaydin, Bonanza and Play Actor. A word of warning to would be cruisers - New Year's was celebrated at 0000 GMT, which was 8:00 PM local time. This more or less ensured that everyone would still be awake! Randy had us participate in a nautical tradition - the oldest person on board rings out the old year with eight bells, then the youngest person on board rings in the New year with eight bells.
We wish everyone a Happy New Year.
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